9N-005=Royal Bardia (9NFF-005)
9N-006=Royal Chitwan (9NFF-006)
Off to Nepal in May 2014 to walk to Everest Base Camp. I was travelling with John and we were meeting two others, Phil and Tim at Lukula. Phil and Tim had flown in two days before.
A side activity was to operate CW from a WWFF park on the way.
All didn’t go as planned. Weather caused flights to Lukla to be cancelled. We spent two days at Kathmandu airport before having to cancel EBC trek. The concern was the fact then the weather for the next couple of days was no better and we will loose our acclimatisation days. I had no intention of going to EBC without the required rest days. Phil and Tim got seats on the freight helicopter so made it Lukla. We were not able to secure seats on the tourist helicopter before running out of rest days. It was with great reluctance that we changed our plans and did not go to EBC. The threat of illness due to high altitude and the ‘thin air’ is real. Decided to go back to Annapurna and ultimately explored areas we missed from earlier trips.
The walk eventually involved going out to Ghorepani then up towards ABC and back via Ghandruk before walking out. The routes intently included the steep paths and also included a couple of paths less traveled. Also there was a desire to not travel so fast. We missed a lot due to tight schedule last time. I wanted more photos and to take in the view.
Nepal-Trilogie. I did not record the on the GPS. Missing tracks from Tikhedunga to Tadapani. This includes Ghorepani and the walk up to Poon Hill. Not sure why. There is a archived GPX on the GPS but I have been unable to read it. Below is a local map showing the same area. The local maps used varies scales however it was always comforting to confirm the direction.
So having decided to drop EBC leaving Phil and Tim with local guides and a plan, we booked flights and it was time to go. Returned to the airport on the third day to see all flights to Lukla were still cancelled so off we went to Pokhara.
We were meet by a taxi and proceeded to Nayapol. Started the walk up to Tikhedunga. Had to stop to get sunscreen as measured temps in excess of 40D.
Stayed the night at Tikhedunga before heading to Ghorepani. Staying at the “Hill Top” quest house in Ghorepani which was the highness lodge. Woke up early to go to Poon Hill (3210m) for the sunrise.
After a early rise off to Tadpani. Would recommend not staying at Tadapani (nothing wrong there) but for the extra hour all down hill Chuile would be a better choice.
There are great views of mountain everywhere. That is what Nepal does.
There are other things to look at.
These rocks were stacked up in the creek. No idea why. Between villages and no local activity. Also they would be takes away by the sessional flood so assuming less than a year old.
Chickens hanging out at the lodges.
There is a pony freight service. The ponys were smaller that what I’m use to.
There were bridges built since our last visit. You did not have to walk all the way down to the creek then back up. Walking not the issue but hated loosing height.
Most villages had power from micro hydro generators. Also safe water was available which appeared to use solar in the process.
Snakes and lizards on the path. Had to be quick to get photos. Yes more summits. They are stunning.
And the creeks are worth stopping for to,
I had obtained a licence to operate my portable radio in the Everest region with interest being the Sagarmatha National Park (WFF – 9NFF-007). As I was not able to spend the time having the licence reissued and had no desire to break the conditions, I did not operate my radio. The WFF rules are for legal activations so would not have been a valid operation. I did not want to create a bad situation for any others applying by breaking the conditions and as I intend to return next year to have another go at EBC, will be chasing another licence in 2015.
Time takes on a different pace in Nepal. This was my second trek and I intend to go back for another. The hills are magnificent.
Whilst Nepal does not a reciprocal licence program there were no issues with obtaining a temporary licence.
My next trip will have time allocated to allow for bad weather and process and the desire to operate from at least the Sagarmatha National Park (WFF – 9NFF-007) will be a planned activity. Not a hopeful option.
Stayed at the Hotel Lake Front.
Flights to Kathmandu were at 10:40 the next morning.
Pokhara is a quite place compared to the pace of Kathmandu. Walking was over to time to take advantage of the shower and get a good feed.
Whilst we were able to visit several spots missed from previous trek in Annapurna I will admit that I was very disappointed at not able to walk to Everest base Camp.
7:00 to 14:00 + taxi to Pokhara.
There is a ‘road’ from Landruk to Lumie. We wanted to go out past ‘Australia Camp’ to terminate at Phedi. Missed the turn and ended up at Lumie.
Whilst this is a straight forward walk it has lost a lot of charm as really a walk down a dirt road.
Not signed. We were using a official Nepalise map for navigation which did not show the road. The road was very new as was not there three years ago. Asked some local monkeys for directions but they ignored us. By the time had worked out missed the turn had Lumie in sight so decided to come out there. Caught a local bus from Lumie to get to Pokhara. However the buss drove to Phedi then stopped for afternoon meal.
The bus was not very different to Victorian public transport. Crowded, slow and not sure how to pay the fare. Caught a taxi from Phedi to reach Pokhara mid afternoon.
Gandruk to Landruk via Forest Camp.
7:00 to 14:00. 7hrs walking.
Decided to escape Nepal’s tourist trails to venture in to the deep forests and head To Forest Camp (Kokar) [2,550 m].Walked down from Gandruk crossing the river and up to Landruk. This took 1.5hrs.
The first tea house we came to had Fanta in a fridge for 100rs. The Fridge was even on and so nice and cool. Had a drink, located the signed marking the Kokar track and off we went.
Missed a turn on way out. Ended following a track and ending up in farming area. This brought delight to local boys in the field who were happy to laugh at us. Backtracked to get back on track but lost 1.5hrs. The point I missed was very well marked. Once back on track set off up the hill. Keeping careful eyes on markers to ensure no more issues. Got to the top of the ridge with great views,
Weather was coming in and we were down to 1.5l of water so decided to go back Landruk.
Spent the day at Gandruk.
Treckers Inn. This was a very nice site. They grow the veggies used in the meals. Very clean and well positioned for views. Hard to leave.
Happy to be off the track as a storm came through. Hail wind the real deal. Setup ourselves to watch the show.
Meet Metta from Happy Childrens Home. This is a orphanage in Pokhara, she founded. Also a very experienced walker she was able to recommend options.
Spent the day reviewing maps and planning for the next day. Target is to go to Forest Camp.
Had two options for today . One vie Komrong and the other via Kyumi. The track to Kromrong was not marked so followed the river and walked up from Kyumi.
Good walk. Had to regain all height from river. Taken a room with attached facilities. Luxury !
Nice area. Not sure where to from here. Back to map